Breithorn Occidentale / West (4164 m a.s.l.)

About peak Breithorn Occidentale / West

Itálie Švýcarsko

Logged on Vrcholovka 50x in total. Peak information here was completed by Horalka Anička, Milan "Hojší" Průžek a Martin Horáček.

Breithorn Occidentale / West is part of challenges: 39 quattromila italiani, 48 Swiss 4000ers, Alpine Four-thousanders

CH/IT
Difficulty I/B-09.III-A

Breithorn is known as the easiest alpine four-thousander. A cable car leads to Klein Matterhorn, and from there, the main summit is essentially just an ascent along a "slope." Of course, this is in thin air. Nevertheless, it is still suitable for beginners even without a guide. As a result, during the season, entire tourist processions make their way to the summit. The first ascent took place in 1813, making it one of the first four-thousanders.

Many awestruck aspirants of four-thousanders return here after years as experienced climbers, paying homage to the entire Breithorn massif by crossing the ridge: from Roccia Nera (4,075 m) over a snowy ridge with many overhangs to the eastern Breithornzwillinge (4,106 m), from there through a combination of rocky and firn terrain to Breithorn Ost (4,141 m), before descending into the next depression. They then continue up perfect rock through three steps to the middle summit (4,160 m), from where it is just a short distance to the often-visited western and simultaneously main summit (4,165 m). A long, combined high-altitude hike that offers everything to quicken a climber's heart: sharp firn edges with distinct overhangs, exciting climbing passages, and exposed descents – all set against a breathtaking backdrop. The first ascent of this route was made in 1884. The group was led by Ulrich Almer from Grindelwald, who, together with Michel Auguste Croz, managed to make several outstanding first ascents on difficult four-thousanders before Croz tragically perished on Matterhorn.

Chalet/accommodation: There is no chalet on the peak.
Stroller access: Peak is not stroller accessible.
Views: There are views from the peak.
Cable car: Yes or No? The cable car does not lead directly to the summit, but the cable car to Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) is less than 3 km away with an elevation gain of about 350 m.
Equipment: glacier ascent
Accessibility: Peak is freely accessible.