Pik Lenina (7134 m a.s.l., Pamír)

About peak Pik Lenina

Tádžikistán

Logged on Vrcholovka 2x in total. Vrchol Pik Lenina was added here by Milan "Hojší" Průžek and info was completed by Milan "Hojší" Průžek a Martin Matějka.

Pik Lenina is part of challenge: Snow Leopard

Pik Lenina (also known as Lenin Peak; Kyrgyz: Ленин Чокусу - Lenin Čokosu; Russian: пик Ленина - pik Lenina; Tajik: қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино - literally "peak of Avicenna") is the highest peak of the Zaalai Range at an elevation of 7,134 meters above sea level and the second highest peak in the former Soviet part of the Pamir Mountains. It lies on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and is the second highest peak in both countries.

The peak was discovered by an expedition led by Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko in 1871 and was named Pik Kaufman after the first Governor-General of Russian Turkestan, Konstantin Petrovich Kaufman, who facilitated the expedition in Turkestan. After a successful first ascent in 1928, the peak was renamed after Vladimir Ilyich Lenin to the now commonly used name Pik Lenina. In Tajikistan, the peak was renamed again in 2006 and is officially called Qullai Abuali ibni Sino, meaning "peak of Avicenna," which corresponds to the standardized Czech exonym Avicenna Peak. According to some sources, the peak is also referred to by the Kyrgyz name Ačik-Taš.

The peak was first ascended on September 25, 1928, by Erwin Schneider, Eugen Allwein, and Karl Wien. Their ascent was part of a joint expedition of the Soviet Academy of Sciences, the German Notgemeinschaft der deutschen Wissenschaft, and the German-Austrian Alpenverein. This expedition thoroughly explored the Zaalai and Zulumart Ranges, the area of the Fedchenko Glacier, and discovered the highest peak of Tajikistan, today's Qullai Ismoili Somoni, then known as Pik Garmo. The ascent of Pik Lenina was made from the south via the Great Saukdara Glacier to the Krilenko Pass and from there along the eastern ridge to the summit. At that time, it was the highest climbed peak (though not an absolute height record). Today, this ascent is rated 5A on the Russian difficulty scale; however, due to its remoteness and inaccessibility, this route is rarely used.

The current normal route from the north over the Razdelnaya peak was first ascended in 1954 by V. Kovaljev, P. Karpov, E. Nagel, V. Naryshkin, and V. Nozdrjuchin. It is one of the technically easiest routes to the seven-thousand-meter peak, making it quite popular. On the Russian difficulty scale, which assesses not only the technical difficulty of the ascent but also the altitude, it is rated 5A. There are around twenty different routes leading to the summit.

The first Czech to reach the summit was Josef Sekyra in 1961. At that time, it was a Czechoslovak altitude record.

Chalet/accommodation

There is no chalet on the peak.

Stroller access

Peak is not stroller accessible.

Views

There are views from the peak.

Cable car

There is no cable car to this peak.

Equipment

Special equipment is required for this summit.

Accessibility

Peak is freely accessible.