Grosser Rettenstein (2366 m a.s.l.)

About peak Grosser Rettenstein

Rakousko

Logged on Vrcholovka 1x in total. Vrchol Grosser Rettenstein was added here by Milan "Hojší" Průžek.

Grosser Rettenstein is part of challenge: King of the Kitzbühel Alps

"Großer Rettenstein is a 2366 m high mountain in the Kitzbühel Alps. Although it is not the highest (that is Kreuzjoch at 2558 m), it is the most prominent and by far the most interesting peak of the entire Kitzbühel Alps, which are mostly soft grassy mountains.
It is a bold rock tower when viewed from the north or south and a massive rock face with towers and spires when viewed from the east or west. The entire rock rises about 400 m above the surrounding green hills and ridges and is simply a striking feature among the peaks of Kitzbühel. As a result, it is one of the most sought-after hikes and is among my favorites in Kitzbühel. On clear days, the summit offers stunning views in all directions, and the traverse Spießnägel – Großer Rettenstein is surely one of the most inspiring tours that the Kitzbühel Alps can offer.

Warning: the summit is often underestimated and is extremely dangerous when there is snow. There have been several accidents here. Absolute insurance is a prerequisite.

Großer Rettenstein is the dominant peak of Spertental and, due to its location, is a great viewpoint. In quiet awe, you can enjoy unique views of the High Tauern, Großglockner, Großvenediger to the Zillertal...

SUMMIT VIDEO

Geologically, Großer Rettenstein is a massive rocky summit block of limestone, rising four hundred meters. A dolomite block sits on quartz phyllites, which are so dominant throughout the mountain range. This dolomite is of Silurian age and can also be found in other areas of the range, but only Großer Rettenstein is this very visible landmark.

From the north and south, hiking trails lead to the summit block, and the eastern normal route goes up to the highest peak of this multi-summit mountain. The normal route is steep and has some easy rock scrambling and some short UIAA grade I moves.

[u]ASCENT:[/u]
From Oberlandhütte, you head south through Spertental on wide valley paths until, after half an hour, trail no. 715 turns left. This leads steeply up through mountain forest to the open meadows of Sonnwendalm. A much flatter section leads mostly along forest paths first south, then southeast to Schöntalalm. Here, we can alternatively join if we want to use the mountain road and, after paying the toll (4€), drive up to Hintenbachalm, ""saving"" about 6 km (3+3) and nearly 200 m of elevation.
It passes around it and further south to a small hut, which offers a place for a break.
Now there is also an ascent directly to Rettenstein. The path crosses into the eastern slope and goes up as a narrow, partially slightly exposed serpentine path in the cirque. The higher you get, the rockier it becomes. The last meters to the actual pre-summit (with a cross) require some hand assistance.

[u]DESCENT:[/u]
For the descent, the same route as for the ascent is recommended.
Alternatively, you can return to Oberlandhütte as a return route via Schöntaljoch, Rettensteinjoch, Spießnägel, and Grundalm.

In winter or spring, Großer Rettenstein is visited by experienced [u]ski mountaineers[/u], although the mountain is not among the classic ski mountaineering peaks of the Kitzbühel Alps. The route follows the summer normal route, is steep and dangerous in its upper parts, and requires a lot of snow to cover many rocks and ledges of the eastern slope.

The western face of Großer Rettenstein offers many climbing routes.
[u]Climbing routes to the summit:[/u]
South pillar UIAA grade IV
Summit ridge (from the north to the south summit): UIAA grade III
Wilde Frauen: UIAA grade III
Western Buttress: UIAA grade VI-
Southwest edge: UIAA grade V+
Rettensteindach: UIAA grade A2/IV+
Southwest buttress UIAA grade IV
Southwest wall: UIAA grade V/V+
Evitutten: NW UIAA grade V+/VI-
Speedy Gonzales: UIAA grade VI-
PinnzgaWeg UIAA grade VI-/VI
Hexentanz: UIAA grade V+
Hufeisen: UIAA grade V-
Old Man: UIAA grade V/V+
Cassandra: UIAA grade VIII
Variation of Western Buttress: UIAA grade VI-

DRONE VIDEO

Chalet/accommodation: There is no chalet on the peak.
Stroller access: Peak is not stroller accessible.
Views: There are views from the peak.
Cable car: There is no cable car to this peak.
Equipment: No special equipment is required for this summit.
Accessibility: Peak is freely accessible.